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Post by Paulus17 on Jun 8, 2019 10:15:16 GMT
Just to clear up a technical point:  Kurust is a phosphoric acid based product that "converts" iron oxide ( - rust ) into iron phosphate which is a stable(ish) coating on the surface of treated ferrous metals KRUST is available very occassionally from Kingo. It's what he has left over when he's finished his pie! Thanks Chris for clearing this up and can see where the confusion has come in now mentioning Kingo, but will the KURUST work now I have coated, well drowned it with the ACF50?? |
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Post by three5 on Jun 8, 2019 12:13:08 GMT
Just to clear up a technical point: Kurust is a phosphoric acid based product that "converts" iron oxide ( - rust ) into iron phosphate which is a stable(ish) coating on the surface of treated ferrous metals KRUST is available very occassionally from Kingo. It's what he has left over when he's finished his pie! Thanks Chris for clearing this up and can see where the confusion has come in now mentioning Kingo, but will the KURUST work now I have coated, well drowned it with the ACF50?? I suspect that you need a "clean", i.e. dry and with no coating surface for Kurust to work properly Paul. Having used the stuff for years in it's various guises, it won't work if you apply it to a surface that has more than a minimal oxide coating ( it can't cope with a thick oxide coating, it will only convert the outer bit to phosphate and leave a healthy layer of rust underneath that will carry on eating into the healthy metal albeit it might be a bit slower as it's doing it below a partly sealed surface. To get this in perspective, and this is only my personal experience, if you take a ferrous part that is rusted and clean it off with a wire brush on an angle grinder to the point where it appears shiny, then apply the Kurust you will get a surface that is mostly a greyish colour with bits of black. The black is where the kurust has found micro pockets of oxide ( rust ) on an otherwise de-rusted surface. That is really about the level of rusting you should be looking to treat.
Phosphating is also used as an industrial process to either protect a ferrous surface that is likely to be fairly protected from mechanical / chemical damage when it is in use OR to prepare a surface for further treatment. I'm a bit out of touch with modern practice but at one point assembled car bodies were phosphated before painting. I'm not sure if there is a better process or not these days - you'd have to ask someone younger! ( I might just do that and report back ) |
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Post by bigkev on Jun 8, 2019 14:13:14 GMT
Since the wan that fell aff had been on for 17 years, dinnae bother coating the new wan, Paul min........it comes black powder coated and will more than likely last longer than you keep the car. Slotting the bolt holes to suit is a dawdle. Good thinking Kev old boy  Avoid foam at all costs......why do you think flowers come with stems embedded therein....? It retains watter and slowly releases it......giving you nice rusty flowers...... |
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Post by Ravasher on Jun 8, 2019 17:42:04 GMT
The filler pipe on our 4.2 was absolutely shot I never once noticed that it was leaking.
We had these go on our 4.2 and when kingo gave me the price I left them off. That was on the old 4.2 though.
Why the hell are they so expensive anyway?
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Post by Hoovie on Jun 8, 2019 17:48:01 GMT
As I mentioned previously, Hammerite Krust is a good product for neutralising the rust that has already taken place. Just painting over rust is rarely succesful. Is that KURUST David? It is  I have never noticed it is correctly called Kurust! opps!  |
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Post by Paulus17 on Jun 8, 2019 18:18:06 GMT
Good thinking Kev old boy Avoid foam at all costs......why do you think flowers come with stems embedded therein....? It retains watter and slowly releases it......giving you nice rusty flowers...... Does water get into that area Kev as I was thinking it was the build up of dirt that got there causing the rust, which the foam would keep out?? |
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Post by Paulus17 on Jun 8, 2019 18:20:08 GMT
Thanks Chris for clearing this up and can see where the confusion has come in now mentioning Kingo, but will the KURUST work now I have coated, well drowned it with the ACF50?? I suspect that you need a "clean", i.e. dry and with no coating surface for Kurust to work properly Paul. Having used the stuff for years in it's various guises, it won't work if you apply it to a surface that has more than a minimal oxide coating ( it can't cope with a thick oxide coating, it will only convert the outer bit to phosphate and leave a healthy layer of rust underneath that will carry on eating into the healthy metal albeit it might be a bit slower as it's doing it below a partly sealed surface. To get this in perspective, and this is only my personal experience, if you take a ferrous part that is rusted and clean it off with a wire brush on an angle grinder to the point where it appears shiny, then apply the Kurust you will get a surface that is mostly a greyish colour with bits of black. The black is where the kurust has found micro pockets of oxide ( rust ) on an otherwise de-rusted surface. That is really about the level of rusting you should be looking to treat.
Phosphating is also used as an industrial process to either protect a ferrous surface that is likely to be fairly protected from mechanical / chemical damage when it is in use OR to prepare a surface for further treatment. I'm a bit out of touch with modern practice but at one point assembled car bodies were phosphated before painting. I'm not sure if there is a better process or not these days - you'd have to ask someone younger! ( I might just do that and report back ) Thanks Chris :TU: I suspect that by putting the ACF50 on now that the Kurust won't be doing it's job so would painting it with normal Hammerite do the trick? |
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Post by davrav on Jun 8, 2019 18:21:44 GMT
The dirt/mud just soaks up moisture and never really dries out Paul - just like foam. Best bet is to protect the steel with anything that repels water and check on a reasonably regular basis so that no crud gets the chance to build up.
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Post by Paulus17 on Jun 8, 2019 18:27:29 GMT
The dirt/mud just soaks up moisture and never really dries out Paul - just like foam. Best bet is to protect the steel with anything that repels water and check on a reasonably regular basis so that no crud gets the chance to build up. OK David will do :TU: |
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Post by three5 on Jun 8, 2019 19:07:17 GMT
I suspect that you need a "clean", i.e. dry and with no coating surface for Kurust to work properly Paul. Having used the stuff for years in it's various guises, it won't work if you apply it to a surface that has more than a minimal oxide coating ( it can't cope with a thick oxide coating, it will only convert the outer bit to phosphate and leave a healthy layer of rust underneath that will carry on eating into the healthy metal albeit it might be a bit slower as it's doing it below a partly sealed surface. To get this in perspective, and this is only my personal experience, if you take a ferrous part that is rusted and clean it off with a wire brush on an angle grinder to the point where it appears shiny, then apply the Kurust you will get a surface that is mostly a greyish colour with bits of black. The black is where the kurust has found micro pockets of oxide ( rust ) on an otherwise de-rusted surface. That is really about the level of rusting you should be looking to treat.
Phosphating is also used as an industrial process to either protect a ferrous surface that is likely to be fairly protected from mechanical / chemical damage when it is in use OR to prepare a surface for further treatment. I'm a bit out of touch with modern practice but at one point assembled car bodies were phosphated before painting. I'm not sure if there is a better process or not these days - you'd have to ask someone younger! ( I might just do that and report back ) Thanks Chris I suspect that by putting the ACF50 on now that the Kurust won't be doing it's job so would painting it with normal Hammerite do the trick? Paul, Hammerite is a chlorinated rubber paint that is almost certainly the best available solution for submerged equipment. It is a "high build" coating ( - you can put on thick coats! ) and is definitely what I would use. |
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Post by firemac on Jun 8, 2019 19:20:58 GMT
Don't over think the whole issue, Paul. The AC50 will be fine and will protect the pipe suitably.
If it's good enough for 747s operating in hostile environments, it will protect the RAV! 👍
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Post by Paulus17 on Jun 11, 2019 16:20:35 GMT
So the new dust shroud arrived today, very nice it is too, so Kev where do I cut to make the slots if that's what you do??   |
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Post by jasehutch on Jun 11, 2019 18:23:42 GMT
Expensive Paul ?
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Post by Paulus17 on Jun 12, 2019 5:52:29 GMT
Aye Jase as usual, £88 a pair or £48 for one  |
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Post by jasehutch on Jun 12, 2019 5:53:51 GMT
Aye Jase as usual, £88 a pair or £48 for one  Ouch... |
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