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Post by Hoovie on Jul 14, 2020 11:27:13 GMT
half a day with a few cups of tea Take it slow and steady and you'll have no problem. I took mine off to fit some air horns and a mesh grill to protect the radiator (I'd recommend adding a mesh grill while it is handy to do - the lower radiator is quite exposed). I will dig out the photos to go with the thread. Thanks David :TU: Is the mesh grill summat you buy or make yourself? Halfords sell various styles in Black or Silver. I just bought one and cut it to suit the opening. I actually have one in the shed whuch I could sell, but the cost of postage is likely similar to going to Halfords to buy one! I added this as I remembered a work colleague with a Honda that had a very expensive repair due to a stone whacking into the rad and his bumper opening was no bigger than the RAVs.
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Post by Paulus17 on Jul 14, 2020 20:22:05 GMT
Thanks David Is the mesh grill summat you buy or make yourself? Halfords sell various styles in Black or Silver. I just bought one and cut it to suit the opening. I actually have one in the shed whuch I could sell, but the cost of postage is likely similar to going to Halfords to buy one! I added this as I remembered a work colleague with a Honda that had a very expensive repair due to a stone whacking into the rad and his bumper opening was no bigger than the RAVs. I have looked on line at the mesh grill but can't find nothing about fitting it to the Rav or how to so any advice welcome :yes:
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Post by davrav on Jul 14, 2020 20:26:16 GMT
I think it will be a DIY job Paul.
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Post by Paulus17 on Jul 15, 2020 7:32:50 GMT
I had a look on line and there are loads to choose from Jim from Amazon, think our nearest TK Maxx is in Coventry if it's still open? or maybe: Cheers Chris, :TU: I suppose they're all the same depending on quality but was looking at THIS SET on Amazon.Not sure what all the pieces do but have their uses i suppose?
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Post by Paulus17 on Jul 15, 2020 7:36:39 GMT
I think it will be a DIY job Paul. Thanks David. :TU: So the mesh is just a roll of ordinary mesh cut to suit, but where would it go and how would it be fitted? Also what bits would need painting from rust while the bumper is off? What should i use, a waxoil, Hammerite? Might have a go at it this weekend all been well :yes:
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Post by davrav on Jul 15, 2020 7:59:03 GMT
With regard to the mesh screen I think it is a case of have a look and work out how/where to attach it. As for rust mitigation, just see if there are any signs and paint or waxoyl as you see fit. Usually it is only bolt heads and around welds and joints that suffer first.
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Post by three5 on Jul 15, 2020 9:05:54 GMT
Cheers Chris, I suppose they're all the same depending on quality but was looking at THIS SET on Amazon.Not sure what all the pieces do but have their uses i suppose? Looks absolutely fine Paul. With the metal pry bar tool, I've found ( I think it was Anchorman's advice years ago ) that wraping the heel of the bar in insulating tape / self amalgamating tape minimises the chance of marking the trim or the surface you are bearing on.
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Post by firemac on Jul 15, 2020 10:01:09 GMT
Cheers Chris, I suppose they're all the same depending on quality but was looking at THIS SET on Amazon.Not sure what all the pieces do but have their uses i suppose? Looks absolutely fine Paul. With the metal pry bar tool, I've found ( I think it was Anchorman's advice years ago ) that wraping the heel of the bar in insulating tape / self amalgamating tape minimises the chance of marking the trim or the surface you are bearing on. Seems odd to include metal implements when the majority of the set is resin. IMHO a steel-strength tool shouldn't be required for removal of trim fasteners. All of my set is resin/nylon.
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Post by davrav on Jul 15, 2020 10:52:38 GMT
I guess the metal 'pry bar' tool is useful for undertray retaining fasteners and the like.
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Post by Paulus17 on Jul 15, 2020 14:10:12 GMT
Looks absolutely fine Paul. With the metal pry bar tool, I've found ( I think it was Anchorman's advice years ago ) that wraping the heel of the bar in insulating tape / self amalgamating tape minimises the chance of marking the trim or the surface you are bearing on. Seems odd to include metal implements when the majority of the set is resin. IMHO a steel-strength tool shouldn't be required for removal of trim fasteners. All of my set is resin/nylon. I did think that meself Jim but when we done the reverse beep beeps the other week that back inside panel was hard to get off. :yes: Nice tip Chris with the tape :TU:
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Post by three5 on Jul 15, 2020 15:16:52 GMT
I guess the metal 'pry bar' tool is useful for undertray retaining fasteners and the like. It's what mine gets used for David. I'm not sure that they really need the strength of a steel tool BUT the steel is a lot easier to clean than the plastic ones ( which I tend to use on the inside trim ). Just thought of a possible exception to "the need for steel" - the side panels in the boot are unbelieveably tough to remove. I've never broken one but it always felt as though I might!
EDIT: Just read Paul's previous post and I think that he is referring to the same panels
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Post by Paulus17 on Jul 15, 2020 18:43:00 GMT
I guess the metal 'pry bar' tool is useful for undertray retaining fasteners and the like. It's what mine gets used for David. I'm not sure that they really need the strength of a steel tool BUT the steel is a lot easier to clean than the plastic ones ( which I tend to use on the inside trim ). Just thought of a possible exception to "the need for steel" - the side panels in the boot are unbelieveably tough to remove. I've never broken one but it always felt as though I might!
EDIT: Just read Paul's previous post and I think that he is referring to the same panels
It is indeed Chris, :yes: Those back side panels were really hard to get off, we thought there were screws somewhere holding em on still :yes:
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