Post by Hoovie on Feb 8, 2018 12:37:45 GMT
Originally Posted by Davrav; Mon Dec 09, 2013 8:36 pm
Finally got round to sorting out some illumination for the glovebox on my 4.3
I used:
Maplin N86CZ self adhesive yellow LED strip [2 x 3LED sections @ £1.04 per section]
Glovebox lighting loom from a 440 series Volvo - £2 from scrappy [I woz robbed![]()
]<br />
<br /><br />Piece of 2mm styrene sheet - had that already<br />4 spade connectors - had them too<br />3 self adhesive cable clips and two small stainless self tappers - had them as well ![]()
<br /><br />I decided to use the upper lip of the glovebox surround to mount the LEDs as it seems to be in a convenient position when open. I took a feed from the cigarette lighter illumination. I could have tapped into the footwell LEDs as an alternative.<br /><br />First step was to make up a mounting strip for the LEDs<br />
<br /><br />I cut a 125mm x 18mm strip from 2mm styrene sheet, shaped and drilled it, dimensions as per diagram in attached PDF. I scraped a groove between the strain holes so the wires sat slightly lower<br />NB - the 5mm holes marked on the PDF are for the drilling jig only - no need to drill these in the mounting strip.<br /><br />Next I mounted LED strip and threaded wires through - my LEDs were first off a new roll so had connecting wire already soldered on 
<br /><br />Note the 'strain relief' holes and threading<br />
<br /><br />I then added the spade connectors<br />
<br />I soldered them on and packed the shroud with silicone for added strength as the wires were fine gauge<br /><br />On checking for fit at the chosen mounting position I found I needed to cut a shallow recess to accommodate a moulding web on the back of the lip<br />
<br /><br />Then I removed the glovebox as per first two instructions HERE<br /><br />Next I needed to make a drilling jig from sheet metal to ensure LED apertures and fixing holes were in alignment<br />
<br /><br />Clamped jig in place<br />
<br /><br />Checked alignment and drilled the 5mm LED apertures, checking alignment as I progressed<br />
<br /><br />Next was the fixing hole positions - I used a 2mm drill through the jig<br />
<br /><br />These were then opened out to 3mm clearance size for the small self tappers I used, then countersunk to take the heads<br />
<br /><br />I found the plastic to be quite soft and 'wooly' and had to carefully clean up the holes with a scalpel.<br />Then I placed the the lED strip on to top side of lip and screwed into place with the LEDs sitting in the apertures. The LEDs are about 2x3mm and stand about 1mm proud of the tape they are attached to and, with the plastic lip being about 1.5mm thick, they do not protrude.<br />
<br /><br />Whilst working in the glovebox I drilled the 8mm hole for the switch. I used a woodworking spur bit to avoid slippage.<br />
<br /><br />and then fed the wires through and push fitted the switch to check for fit.<br />
<br />Could have been 5mm higher on reflection ![]()
<br /><br />Next job was to gain access to the feed wiring - this was achieved by first removing the console side trims<br />
<br />Lever up with a trim tool or similar and pull up and rearwards to remove.<br /><br />Gearstick moulding was lifted out of the way too<br />
<br /><br />Then I had to unscrew the cupholder/switch panel<br />
<br />and unplug the two connectors. The one I needed was grey with the dark green wire having +12V<br /><br />
<br /><br />
<br /><br />At this stage I offered up the loom for sizing, trimmed the switch wires and soldered on two new spade connectors to suit<br />
<br />New connectors are the red ones.<br /><br />I fed the loom through from the switch and decided to dismantle the plug and solder direct to the terminals but 'Scotchloks' would have been far quicker. I labelled the plug to avoid making an error when re-assembling ![]()
<br />
<br /><br />Once that was done it was a case of connect up the LED strip, test, use the self adhesive cable clips to tidy away the wires re-assembled and had a beer ![]()
<br /><br />I spent a lot of time working out 'how to' but I guess actual work time about 2 hrs give or take ![]()
<br /><br />Here's what it looks like in the dark - you 'have to be there' to get the full effect ![]()
<br />
[/img][/img][/img][/img]
Finally got round to sorting out some illumination for the glovebox on my 4.3
I used:
Maplin N86CZ self adhesive yellow LED strip [2 x 3LED sections @ £1.04 per section]
Glovebox lighting loom from a 440 series Volvo - £2 from scrappy [I woz robbed
<br /><br />Piece of 2mm styrene sheet - had that already<br />4 spade connectors - had them too<br />3 self adhesive cable clips and two small stainless self tappers - had them as well <br /><br />I cut a 125mm x 18mm strip from 2mm styrene sheet, shaped and drilled it, dimensions as per diagram in attached PDF. I scraped a groove between the strain holes so the wires sat slightly lower<br />NB - the 5mm holes marked on the PDF are for the drilling jig only - no need to drill these in the mounting strip.<br /><br />Next I mounted LED strip and threaded wires through - my LEDs were first off a new roll so had connecting wire already soldered on <br /><br />Note the 'strain relief' holes and threading<br /><br /><br />I then added the spade connectors<br /><br />I soldered them on and packed the shroud with silicone for added strength as the wires were fine gauge<br /><br />On checking for fit at the chosen mounting position I found I needed to cut a shallow recess to accommodate a moulding web on the back of the lip<br /><br /><br />Then I removed the glovebox as per first two instructions HERE<br /><br />Next I needed to make a drilling jig from sheet metal to ensure LED apertures and fixing holes were in alignment<br /><br /><br />Clamped jig in place<br /><br /><br />Checked alignment and drilled the 5mm LED apertures, checking alignment as I progressed<br /><br /><br />Next was the fixing hole positions - I used a 2mm drill through the jig<br /><br /><br />These were then opened out to 3mm clearance size for the small self tappers I used, then countersunk to take the heads<br /><br /><br />I found the plastic to be quite soft and 'wooly' and had to carefully clean up the holes with a scalpel.<br />Then I placed the the lED strip on to top side of lip and screwed into place with the LEDs sitting in the apertures. The LEDs are about 2x3mm and stand about 1mm proud of the tape they are attached to and, with the plastic lip being about 1.5mm thick, they do not protrude.<br /><br /><br />Whilst working in the glovebox I drilled the 8mm hole for the switch. I used a woodworking spur bit to avoid slippage.<br /><br /><br />and then fed the wires through and push fitted the switch to check for fit.<br /><br />Could have been 5mm higher on reflection <br />Lever up with a trim tool or similar and pull up and rearwards to remove.<br /><br />Gearstick moulding was lifted out of the way too<br /><br /><br />Then I had to unscrew the cupholder/switch panel<br /><br />and unplug the two connectors. The one I needed was grey with the dark green wire having +12V<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />At this stage I offered up the loom for sizing, trimmed the switch wires and soldered on two new spade connectors to suit<br /><br />New connectors are the red ones.<br /><br />I fed the loom through from the switch and decided to dismantle the plug and solder direct to the terminals but 'Scotchloks' would have been far quicker. I labelled the plug to avoid making an error when re-assembling <br /><br />Once that was done it was a case of connect up the LED strip, test, use the self adhesive cable clips to tidy away the wires re-assembled and had a beer [/img][/img][/img][/img]