alexc
Junior Member
Posts: 2
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Post by alexc on Mar 30, 2019 2:21:06 GMT
Hi all,
I am helping my sister find a good used car and she wants to get a RAV4. Budget means looking for a third gen model.
When I bought my used Touareg, I found a really helpful list of things to check (aside from the usual generic checks) which helped me find a good one and avoid a lemon eg forcing car to downshift from 5th to 4th to test valve body.
Is there anything specific to the RAV4 that is worth looking at for.
Possibly viewing one at the weekend a 2.0 petrol XT5 auto with around 85,000 miles on it.
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Post by firemac on Mar 30, 2019 9:01:56 GMT
The VVTi petrol engine is virtually bullet proof and has no generic problems. We've had 4 of them (all 4.2s, the model before the one you are going to look at) and had no engine problems other than a snapped aux belt. We had a 4.3 D-CAT which was perfect but not as nice in my opinion as the 4.2. You will find that the petrol is obviously not as good on mpg as a diesel but is less troublesome. Generally, Toyota's build quality is excellent and reliability is first class. Of course you must ensure that all the usual things are in order - service history, MOT history, no accident damage, etc. An HPI report is always a good idea. Good hunting!  |
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Post by jasehutch on Mar 30, 2019 9:45:40 GMT
Hi and welcome to the club alexc... :TU:
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Post by roger37 on Mar 30, 2019 10:51:37 GMT
:welcome: alexc
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Post by philip42h on Mar 30, 2019 11:04:57 GMT
Further to firemac's comments above, while the 2.0 VVTi petrol is regarded as reliable and bomb-proof, there have been issues with the 2AD diesel engine fitted to the 4.3 between 2005 and 2008/9 as discussed here. Toyota acknowledged the issue and provided a 7 year, 112k mile 'goodwill extended warranty' during which they replaced engines that failed. That is of course now time-expired. As we understand, only small numbers were affected. A car with a replacement engine would be a good bet; one might argue that a car that hasn't failed yet, won't; but one that fails now may well be considered beyond economic repair. For peace of mind it may be wiser to stick to a petrol ... [Says someone now on his second 2AD diesel RAV4 and I haven't had a minutes worry from either of them! ] |
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Post by davrav on Mar 30, 2019 11:38:33 GMT
:welcome:Alex.
One thing that comes to mind that you should check is the filler down tube from cap to tank. If crud has been allowed to build up behind the plastic shield to front of nearside wheel arch, the filler tubes have been known to rot towards the bottom elbow bend. It's not easy to check unless you can get the cover off from inside the wheel arch or get underneath and footle around with a torch and something to prod with. A smell of fuel in that area is a clue to potential problems.
Rear brake discs have a tendency to corrode on the inside face, especially if original Toyota discs. Fronts also but less severe usually. Standard handbrake adjustment is, from memory, five to seven clicks which seems excessive compared to many other cars but it is what it is.
Changing front discs and pads is pretty straightforward for a reasonably competent DIYer, rears are slightly more complicated as the handbrake shoes are inside he 'top hat' but still doable.
We have some excellent 'how to' guides by that Anchorman somewhere on the forum :TU:
Oh, and a rattle underneath the rear seat could be an indication of a loose heat shield as the do gradually corrode around the fixings. Usually fixed by the addition of some penny washers or aluminium plates. Some simply remove the shield.
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Post by three5 on Mar 30, 2019 13:54:44 GMT
:welcome:Alex. One thing that comes to mind that you should check is the filler down tube from cap to tank. If crud has been allowed to build up behind the plastic shield to front of nearside wheel arch, the filler tubes have been known to rot towards the bottom elbow bend. It's not easy to check unless you can get the cover off from inside the wheel arch or get underneath and footle around with a torch and something to prod with. A smell of fuel in that area is a clue to potential problems. Rear brake discs have a tendency to corrode on the inside face, especially if original Toyota discs. Fronts also but less severe usually. Standard handbrake adjustment is, from memory, five to seven clicks which seems excessive compared to many other cars but it is what it is. Changing front discs and pads is pretty straightforward for a reasonably competent DIYer, rears are slightly more complicated as the handbrake shoes are inside he 'top hat' but still doable. We have some excellent 'how to' guides by that Anchorman somewhere on the forum  Oh, and a rattle underneath the rear seat could be an indication of a loose heat shield as the do gradually corrode around the fixings. Usually fixed by the addition of some penny washers or aluminium plates. Some simply remove the shield. Only thing that I would add to that David is to make sure that the handbrake works properly as any problem could be down to the corrosion of the aluminium ends on the cables where they pass through the hub backplate. To test, apply the handbrake normally and try to drive away, if you can there is likely to be a problem with the cables. A DIY job but a bit more complex than just changing the shoes/discs/pads. If you can get the vehicle on a lift to inspect, give the fuel filler pipe a good waggle to see if it dislodges rust or debris. The filler pipe is around £180 + fitting. The brake cables ( non-oem ) are about £40/pair. HTH |
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Post by firemac on Mar 30, 2019 14:09:19 GMT
:welcome:Alex. One thing that comes to mind that you should check is the filler down tube from cap to tank. If crud has been allowed to build up behind the plastic shield to front of nearside wheel arch, the filler tubes have been known to rot towards the bottom elbow bend. It's not easy to check unless you can get the cover off from inside the wheel arch or get underneath and footle around with a torch and something to prod with. A smell of fuel in that area is a clue to potential problems. Rear brake discs have a tendency to corrode on the inside face, especially if original Toyota discs. Fronts also but less severe usually. Standard handbrake adjustment is, from memory, five to seven clicks which seems excessive compared to many other cars but it is what it is. Changing front discs and pads is pretty straightforward for a reasonably competent DIYer, rears are slightly more complicated as the handbrake shoes are inside he 'top hat' but still doable. We have some excellent 'how to' guides by that Anchorman somewhere on the forum Oh, and a rattle underneath the rear seat could be an indication of a loose heat shield as the do gradually corrode around the fixings. Usually fixed by the addition of some penny washers or aluminium plates. Some simply remove the shield. Only thing that I would add to that David is to make sure that the handbrake works properly as any problem could be down to the corrosion of the aluminium ends on the cables where they pass through the hub backplate. To test, apply the handbrake normally and try to drive away, if you can there is likely to be a problem with the cables. A DIY job but a bit more complex than just changing the shoes/discs/pads. If you can get the vehicle on a lift to inspect, give the fuel filler pipe a good waggle to see if it dislodges rust or debris. The filler pipe is around £180 + fitting. The brake cables ( non-oem ) are about £40/pair. HTH Maybe l have just been lucky but with 6 RAVs owned since 2002, I have never experienced any of the problems mentioned. As I said one broke the aux belt and our early 4.2 auto had to have the gearbox ECU reflashed. But that's it. |
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alexc
Junior Member
Posts: 2
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Post by alexc on Mar 30, 2019 16:12:27 GMT
Fantastic replies thank you all. The filler tube and handbrake are exactly the kind of tips I was hoping to get!
I will check the discs etc but am ok with a spanner and have changed my Touareg front and rear, so happy to knock a few pounds off if they are corroded or badly lipped and pop some new ones on.
Alex
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Post by davidwilson on Mar 30, 2019 20:46:25 GMT
The mid section of the exhaust cost me about 1k to replace. It may be cheaper nowadays but worth checking!
Welcome!
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Post by Ravasher on Mar 31, 2019 10:17:15 GMT
The mid section of the exhaust cost me about 1k to replace. It may be cheaper nowadays but worth checking! Welcome! A lot cheaper now eurocarparts supply one. Cost me £130 and had a local garage fit it. That wa son the T180 |
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Post by phaeton on Mar 31, 2019 10:30:07 GMT
Bit difficult to fault the Rav 4.3 Diesel we have, bought with 92K on now got 135K apart from normal services, a pair of front tyres, discs & pads all round, we've not had a spend a penny on it in 4 or 5 years (forget which).
Edit:- I had to put an alternator on it last year, well had the existing one refurbished think it was £50.
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Post by clarki on Apr 6, 2019 18:30:00 GMT
Mine seems to have developed the handbrake cable issue mentioned earlier in the last few weeks. My have a look myself when the weather gets a bit warmer.
However, car is now fast approaching 100k and its the first fault I've encountered. Had the car since 28k and 5 years old. Recon it'd do another 100k easypeasy tbh.
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