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Post by Paulus17 on Nov 22, 2018 23:16:24 GMT
Well Mrs P has been driving the Rav all week and really likes it so looks like it will be a keeper, says she prefers driving this one than Ol Blue :yes:
So I have been looking at a towbar to go on it and have been offered one off a 2005 model and one off a 2002 same as Mrs Ps so would the one off the 2005 model fit does anyone know??
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Post by jasehutch on Nov 23, 2018 6:52:55 GMT
I would say it’ll fit Paul.. :TU:
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Post by Paulus17 on Nov 23, 2018 6:55:52 GMT
I would say it’ll fit Paul..  Cheers Jase. Would it have to be a detachable one Jase or will it be fixed as the one I had fitted on Ol Blue was a detachable so the back door could open?? |
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Post by jasehutch on Nov 23, 2018 7:38:48 GMT
I can only speak from my own experience Paul but mines a Witter fixed type and it's close to the door but not a problem..
Don't take just my word for it that the 2005 one will fit yours though..
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Post by Hoovie on Nov 23, 2018 13:28:13 GMT
There are a few options paul that may help you decide ... The fixed towbars are by neccesity lower than the bottom of the rear door - that means it is pretty low and *could* be an issue for bigger trailers and caravans, but not for the typical small 750Kg or less trailer There are two 'flavours' of detachable towbars. one has a low ball height that matches the fixed towbar - so had the same limitations as above, but it means you can open the rear door without removing the mount. one has a ball height that is more standard height and when in place STOPS you opening the rear door. This 'high' version is how the standard Toyota (Rebadge Brinks (and now owned by Witter)) Detachable Towbar is setup. If you have a small trailer, I would think hard if you want a towbar that you always have to remove the towball from to access the rear door (i.e. do you want a Toyota Standard one). This is how the detachable one looked on my 2005 5 door 
Towbar by David, on Flickr FWIW, I went for the Brinks Towbar, but not through Toyota, which meant I could selected the 'low' version as I didn't want to be forced to pull the ball on and off. It also used the same mounts (not the same mount place but the actual same mounts) as the Chrome bar, which might be a consideration if you have or are thinking of fitting a rear bar. |
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Post by three5 on Nov 23, 2018 14:09:21 GMT
There are a few options paul that may help you decide ... The fixed towbars are by neccesity lower than the bottom of the rear door - that means it is pretty low and *could* be an issue for bigger trailers and caravans, but not for the typical small 750Kg or less trailer There are two 'flavours' of detachable towbars. one has a low ball height that matches the fixed towbar - so had the same limitations as above, but it means you can open the rear door without removing the mount. one has a ball height that is more standard height and when in place STOPS you opening the rear door. This 'high' version is how the standard Toyota (Rebadge Brinks (and now owned by Witter)) Detachable Towbar is setup. If you have a small trailer, I would think hard if you want a towbar that you always have to remove the towball from to access the rear door (i.e. do you want a Toyota Standard one). This is how the detachable one looked on my 2005 5 door
Towbar by David, on Flickr FWIW, I went for the Brinks Towbar, but not through Toyota, which meant I could selected the 'low' version as I didn't want to be forced to pull the ball on and off. It also used the same mounts (not the same mount place but the actual same mounts) as the Chrome bar, which might be a consideration if you have or are thinking of fitting a rear bar. I've a Brinks/Witter detatchable swan neck version on the 4.3. With the plastic ball cover in place there is about 60mm of clearance to the bottom of the door as it opens. When the ( 750 KG, 1200 x 900 ) trailer is in place the door still opens over the coupling, but the trailer towbar is not long enough to fully open the rear door. A longer trailer towbar with a small set in it is on my list of jobs to do this winter  . I fitted the bar and electrics ( a Toyota kit from Kingo ) myself and it was a straightforward job once you got around the no-words-only-pictures instructions.
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Post by Hoovie on Nov 23, 2018 14:30:10 GMT
There are a few options paul that may help you decide ... The fixed towbars are by neccesity lower than the bottom of the rear door - that means it is pretty low and *could* be an issue for bigger trailers and caravans, but not for the typical small 750Kg or less trailer There are two 'flavours' of detachable towbars. one has a low ball height that matches the fixed towbar - so had the same limitations as above, but it means you can open the rear door without removing the mount. one has a ball height that is more standard height and when in place STOPS you opening the rear door. This 'high' version is how the standard Toyota (Rebadge Brinks (and now owned by Witter)) Detachable Towbar is setup. If you have a small trailer, I would think hard if you want a towbar that you always have to remove the towball from to access the rear door (i.e. do you want a Toyota Standard one). This is how the detachable one looked on my 2005 5 door
Towbar by David, on Flickr FWIW, I went for the Brinks Towbar, but not through Toyota, which meant I could selected the 'low' version as I didn't want to be forced to pull the ball on and off. It also used the same mounts (not the same mount place but the actual same mounts) as the Chrome bar, which might be a consideration if you have or are thinking of fitting a rear bar. I've a Brinks/Witter detatchable swan neck version on the 4.3. With the plastic ball cover in place there is about 60mm of clearance to the bottom of the door as it opens. When the ( 750 KG, 1200 x 900 ) trailer is in place the door still opens over the coupling, but the trailer towbar is not long enough to fully open the rear door. A longer trailer towbar with a small set in it is on my list of jobs to do this winter . I fitted the bar and electrics ( a Toyota kit from Kingo ) myself and it was a straightforward job once you got around the no-words-only-pictures instructions.
Interesting. Sounds like there is a definate difference in the setups between 4.2 and 4.3 As mentioned, the Toyota detachable option blocks the door, but even if you opt for the non-Toyota supplied low detachable, that WILL block the door when you have a hitch mounted on the ball (the door fouled the hitch itself). I guess the bottom of the rear door is significantly higher on the 4.3 than it is on the 4.2 (which makes sense as the whole centre section of the bumper on the 4.2 was attached to the rear door, but on the 4.3, the bumper was fixed and there was just a cutout for the door, with most of the centre fixed in place) |
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Post by Paulus17 on Nov 23, 2018 15:23:45 GMT
Thanks for the info :TU:
I had a genuine Toyota TB on the last Rav that I picked up second hand locally and that was the detachable type as the door couldn't be opened with it in place.
I'm only using a small trailer so the lower TB will be fine for what I do with it but don't want to fork out on a new TB.
The one I was after from the 2005 Rav is down Portsmouth and the seller won't post so it's back to the drawing board for now.
I won't be able to wire it so would have to look for a mobile sparky to wire it for me.
Mrs P does like those chrome bars for the back and it would hide the TB a little but haven't seen any going second hand?
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Post by three5 on Nov 23, 2018 16:08:15 GMT
Thanks for the info I had a genuine Toyota TB on the last Rav that I picked up second hand locally and that was the detachable type as the door couldn't be opened with it in place. I'm only using a small trailer so the lower TB will be fine for what I do with it but don't want to fork out on a new TB. The one I was after from the 2005 Rav is down Portsmouth and the seller won't post so it's back to the drawing board for now. I won't be able to wire it so would have to look for a mobile sparky to wire it for me. Mrs P does like those chrome bars for the back and it would hide the TB a little but haven't seen any going second hand? With the Toyota kit the wiring is particularly easy as all you do is seperate existing plug/sockets on the wiring loom and plug those ends into the auxillary loom for the towbar. Everything is just as waterproof afterwards as it was beforehand due to the seals in the plugs and sockets. I have the wiring instructions as a .pdf if you want to see what you are in for Paul. |
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Post by Paulus17 on Nov 23, 2018 18:07:35 GMT
Thanks for the info I had a genuine Toyota TB on the last Rav that I picked up second hand locally and that was the detachable type as the door couldn't be opened with it in place. I'm only using a small trailer so the lower TB will be fine for what I do with it but don't want to fork out on a new TB. The one I was after from the 2005 Rav is down Portsmouth and the seller won't post so it's back to the drawing board for now. I won't be able to wire it so would have to look for a mobile sparky to wire it for me. Mrs P does like those chrome bars for the back and it would hide the TB a little but haven't seen any going second hand? With the Toyota kit the wiring is particularly easy as all you do is seperate existing plug/sockets on the wiring loom and plug those ends into the auxillary loom for the towbar. Everything is just as waterproof afterwards as it was beforehand due to the seals in the plugs and sockets. I have the wiring instructions as a .pdf if you want to see what you are in for Paul. If you don't mind Chris :TU: I did manage to fix the actual TB to the last Rav but had to get someone out to wire it for me but back then I was told it was an easy job to do but I just don't like messing with wiring of any sort :no: |
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Post by Hoovie on Nov 23, 2018 18:44:27 GMT
wiring up a towbar is honestly very simple and there is no need to spend a fortune on "official" wiring looms either.
You can get a towbar wiring relay that just uses the voltage diffrential from the various lights to drive the trailer lights via this powered relay therefore not adding any current load (so works on just about any vehicle, Canbus or Non-Canbus)
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Post by Paulus17 on Nov 24, 2018 18:48:30 GMT
wiring up a towbar is honestly very simple and there is no need to spend a fortune on "official" wiring looms either. You can get a towbar wiring relay that just uses the voltage diffrential from the various lights to drive the trailer lights via this powered relay therefore not adding any current load (so works on just about any vehicle, Canbus or Non-Canbus) I wish I could do it David along with many other things but I just don't trust meself doing this and would probably cost more putting my efforts right :yes: If I remember last time I discussed the TB on the old forum it was advisable to use the Toyota wiring kit as if not problems occurred which if you didn't know what you were doing got a bit more complicated?? |
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Post by phaeton on Nov 27, 2018 12:48:03 GMT
For dedicated wiring kits try PF Jones in Manchester they are not cheap, but I now prefer to use one rather than cutting into a car harness especially if they are CANBUS
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Post by jasehutch on Nov 27, 2018 13:22:21 GMT
I think mine was from them.
Have to agree with the plug in option too as when I did mine I cut into each wire , soldered the joints and heat shrunk each one but it took ages...
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