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Post by charliefarlie on Oct 11, 2018 20:38:07 GMT
Well, playing devil's advocate, if we take Toyota (not VW), typically a Toyota's oil filter holds around 0.5 litres. If we took a diesel 4.3 RAV, that's 0.5 litre old oil "contamination" in 5.9 litres. 8.5% with those figures. However, the dry fill for a 4.3 diesel is 6.7 litres. You only ever put 5.9 litres back in for a normal oil & filter change, so even with the filter change there's still 0.8 litres of "contamination" that you can do nothing about - unless you completely strip down the engine.  On the service data sheet, Toyota do quote the quantity figures for an oil fill, both with and without filter change. That maybe adds weight to David's case. I'd still change the filter though. Is that devils advocate the horrible creamy muck me gran used to drink at Christmas ?? Either that or babycham and she used to get pi$$ed and give me sixpence......... |
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Post by Hoovie on Oct 11, 2018 21:02:13 GMT
I like a nice advocat :cat: New filter arrived today  . Oil is coming tomorrow The oil change on my 2.8L engine is 7.5L. looking at the filter I can't see it holding much more than 0.5L |
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Post by Hoovie on Oct 11, 2018 21:24:01 GMT
PS. I was advised to remove the filter I need a chain strap. The new filter has a nut at the top as part of the housing - I presume to allow you to use a spanner to remove. Is that quite unusual? Seems like a sensible idea to me!
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Post by phaeton on Oct 12, 2018 5:49:21 GMT
Used to be fairly common many years ago, but then again so did canister paper refills, but the drive to get the cost down & ease of manufacture probably made them change.
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Post by shcm on Oct 12, 2018 7:16:56 GMT
Is that devils advocate the horrible creamy muck me gran used to drink at Christmas ?? Either that or babycham and she used to get pi$$ed and give me sixpence......... Devils??? Yeah, otherwise known as Warm Nick's Advocate. (Nick - as in "Old Nick".) (Warm as in Hell) (Warm Nick as in Warninks. It's useless when you have to explain it. ) |
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Post by Hoovie on Oct 12, 2018 12:18:06 GMT
I got a price today from my local garage I use to do an oil + filter change when I supply the parts .... £60. So not horrendous I guess, but enough to make me do it myself!
Had a quick scoot underneath the old girl ... Filter is pretty accessible and was fitted using the attached nut on the end (I can see bits of it rusty where the spanner had taken the paint off, so that should be straightforward to replace. The sump drain plug is easy to get to (and is a lifetime one) so I suppose will just bite the bullet and do them both and in the approved manner :yes:
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Post by Hoovie on Oct 12, 2018 17:38:57 GMT
Ok ... Bit more advice please .....
I have taken comments on board and will do the Filter as well as the Oil :yes:
I know you add a smear of oil on the rubber seal before fitting, but I thought it was also meant to be a good idea to pre-fill the filter with oil in the same way you would prime a fuel filter before fitting. Is that correct? and does it matter much it not really possible if the filter is mounted on the side of the engine (like mine is) asl the action of refilling the oil will fill it up enough anyway when the oil travels through the filter?
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Post by firemac on Oct 12, 2018 19:11:55 GMT
Ok ... Bit more advice please ..... I have taken comments on board and will do the Filter as well as the Oil  I know you add a smear of oil on the rubber seal before fitting, but I thought it was also meant to be a good idea to pre-fill the filter with oil in the same way you would prime a fuel filter before fitting. Is that correct? and does it matter much it not really possible if the filter is mounted on the side of the engine (like mine is) asl the action of refilling the oil will fill it up enough anyway when the oil travels through the filter? In the past on cars with "upright-ish" filters, I've filled them with oil before fitting them to the engine. But, in fairness, if the filter is at a difficult angle, e.g. horizontal-ish, there's not much point as the oil will simply run out as you try to spin it tight. In any event, there's probably enough oil coating the wearing surfaces of the engine to ensure there is no metal-to-metal contact during the first few seconds' running before the new oil gets circulated around the engine by the pump. |
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Post by jasehutch on Oct 12, 2018 19:42:27 GMT
On old tractors I used to keep the 'stop' pulled out whilst cranking the engine over until the oil light went out and then fire the engine up..
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Post by Hoovie on Oct 16, 2018 11:11:29 GMT
Well today was the day :yes:
Got the engine warmed up; got the right spanner for the filter (30mm!) and the drain plug. checked the oil level to see where it sat and ...
... when I looked at the oil after wiping on the cloth I decided it was so clear and clean I wouldn't bother changing it! I will wait until the springtime as the likely mileage between now and then is pretty small anyway.
There is a possibility I might drive over to the continent on a trip to Austria in the winter season, which would add a couple more thousand on, but it is fairly remote and should that happen, I have the oil and filter in the shed and can do a change before going if need be.
(but the time I put aside for the oil change I used to clean the window scuttle! there is a large pine tree where I park the van and the cones and needles fall onto the vehicles and the soggy mess does a great job of blocking the drainage holes. So time was not awasted!)
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. Oil is coming tomorrow 
