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Post by Hoovie on Aug 29, 2018 11:51:41 GMT
Right! I have 10L of Tetroseal Clear I bought back in 2012 to whack on the RAV4 SR. Never got round to it and car got nicked anyway. I have an Air Compressor (may be relevant to this discussion?) 1) Will the Tetroseal still be in a condition to apply after 6 years? (it has been stored in an shed outside so has been in varying temps including around -10C or less) 2) What applicator is best to get to apply this to the underside of my rather large LWB Camperbus? I will be doing so with the vehicle on the ground, so no pit or lift (but I could drive up on ramps to raise a few inches) 3) what is the best prep before applying? Powerwash all underneath and leave to dry for a day or so? This is a flavour of what the underchassis looks like currently  Combustion Inlet and Exhaust pipework by David, on Flickr  Underchassis under Seat by David, on Flickr So it is pretty clean under there, especially for a 15 year old vehicle, but there are some surface rust areas. Worth wire-brushing and painting over those bits with something like Hammerite before Tetrosealing? Add-on question: I recall a discussion about some Shultz stuff to apply to the inner wheel wells? Is that the way to go for that in combo with the Tetroseal on the main chassis? If so, what was that product and how to apply? Cheers Guys :TU: |
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Post by Paulus17 on Aug 29, 2018 13:22:12 GMT
Doesn't tetroseal do more harm than good or am I getting it confused with another car sealer??
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Post by philip42h on Aug 29, 2018 16:12:24 GMT
I think that you must be (getting confused that is).  There is a thread on the "other place" suggesting that Don had Tetrosealed a number of members cars including his own (RAV) complete with pictures of the result (and Shultz on the inner wheel arches exactly as Hoovie recalls). Don 'promised' a guide but I suspect that it was "overtaken by events".  |
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Post by shcm on Aug 29, 2018 21:44:30 GMT
My Urban Cruiser has Tetroseal. It stays flexible and waxy. Still is after 5 years. So not a problem due to hardening or cracking.
The RAV was done with Dinitrol, (a lot more expensive) after seeing the stunning effects of it on the now sadly late member VivianM's RAV. Again stays flexible. I think it's superior, water beads off it, but does it make economical sense?
Both applied with compressor and gun, but pit was available.
Have a talk to Don. :TU:
If it's been stored, but sealed shouldn't it be OK? If the volatile part of it has evaporated, can't you just add a spirit to get it flowing again?
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Post by bothwellbuyer on Aug 30, 2018 5:28:44 GMT
My Urban Cruiser has Tetroseal. It stays flexible and waxy. Still is after 5 years. So not a problem due to hardening or cracking. The RAV was done with Dinitrol, (a lot more expensive) after seeing the stunning effects of it on the now sadly late member VivianM's RAV. Again stays flexible. I think it's superior, water beads off it, but does it make economical sense? Both applied with compressor and gun, but pit was available. Have a talk to Don.  If it's been stored, but sealed shouldn't it be OK? If the volatile part of it has evaporated, can't you just add a spirit to get it flowing again? Whit ??  Adding whisky to underseal? If its sealed and obviously not water-based, then should be ok. Add a dash of that well-known English liquid destroyer (buckfast) and ye'll be fine. (No - add the buckfast to a glass - safer than drinking it out the bottle). Ye'll no need a pit and ye'll be comatose unner-neath  |
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Post by anchorman on Aug 30, 2018 6:20:06 GMT
I’m sure it will keep OK in a sealed tin. I just bought a cheap gun off eBay to apply. Stand it in a bowl of hot water to thin it or on the kitchen radiator if anchorwoman isn’t about. Schutz will dry hard so the under wings will need to be quite clean. After that you can apply tetroseal over the lot. I’ll find some pictures later.
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Post by shcm on Aug 30, 2018 7:07:57 GMT
Whit ??  Adding whisky to underseal?
Yeah, the vapours render any breathalyzer in a mile radius useless. Not that I'm condoning such action. Alternatively use poitín.
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Post by three5 on Aug 30, 2018 10:43:38 GMT
Right! I have 10L of Tetroseal Clear I bought back in 2012 to whack on the RAV4 SR. Never got round to it and car got nicked anyway. I have an Air Compressor (may be relevant to this discussion?) 1) Will the Tetroseal still be in a condition to apply after 6 years? (it has been stored in an shed outside so has been in varying temps including around -10C or less) 2) What applicator is best to get to apply this to the underside of my rather large LWB Camperbus? I will be doing so with the vehicle on the ground, so no pit or lift (but I could drive up on ramps to raise a few inches) 3) what is the best prep before applying? Powerwash all underneath and leave to dry for a day or so? This is a flavour of what the underchassis looks like currently Combustion Inlet and Exhaust pipework by David, on Flickr Underchassis under Seat by David, on Flickr So it is pretty clean under there, especially for a 15 year old vehicle, but there are some surface rust areas. Worth wire-brushing and painting over those bits with something like Hammerite before Tetrosealing? Add-on question: I recall a discussion about some Shultz stuff to apply to the inner wheel wells? Is that the way to go for that in combo with the Tetroseal on the main chassis? If so, what was that product and how to apply? Cheers Guys Hoovie, unless you really want to buy a gun, I'll happily lend you mine. Been used with Tetroseal before and works well. You have a compressor so assuming you have a hose as well. I cleand the gun up with petrol afterwards and that worked well. Looks as though you will be doing a fair bit of masking before application. I tend to drape cloths arround the exhaust etc.
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Post by bigkev on Aug 30, 2018 11:01:20 GMT
Gotta hurry Hoovie......not a job furra cauld day, as it will congeal in low temps as you know. Nick into a Dulux trade centre and ask him to shoogle yer cans on his paint mixing machine......lol. Underside looks in stonkful condition......why so clean.....? Power wash not enough.....get steamed as was done to yer wee Bustrucket green three door Rav.
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Post by Hoovie on Aug 30, 2018 17:57:18 GMT
Right! I have 10L of Tetroseal Clear I bought back in 2012 to whack on the RAV4 SR. Never got round to it and car got nicked anyway. I have an Air Compressor (may be relevant to this discussion?) 1) Will the Tetroseal still be in a condition to apply after 6 years? (it has been stored in an shed outside so has been in varying temps including around -10C or less) 2) What applicator is best to get to apply this to the underside of my rather large LWB Camperbus? I will be doing so with the vehicle on the ground, so no pit or lift (but I could drive up on ramps to raise a few inches) 3) what is the best prep before applying? Powerwash all underneath and leave to dry for a day or so? This is a flavour of what the underchassis looks like currently Combustion Inlet and Exhaust pipework by David, on Flickr Underchassis under Seat by David, on Flickr So it is pretty clean under there, especially for a 15 year old vehicle, but there are some surface rust areas. Worth wire-brushing and painting over those bits with something like Hammerite before Tetrosealing? Add-on question: I recall a discussion about some Shultz stuff to apply to the inner wheel wells? Is that the way to go for that in combo with the Tetroseal on the main chassis? If so, what was that product and how to apply? Cheers Guys Hoovie, unless you really want to buy a gun, I'll happily lend you mine. Been used with Tetroseal before and works well. You have a compressor so assuming you have a hose as well. I cleand the gun up with petrol afterwards and that worked well. Looks as though you will be doing a fair bit of masking before application. I tend to drape cloths arround the exhaust etc.
Not sure how much a gun costs but it maybe only a little more than the cost of postage to me and back again so might be worthwhile just buying one. really appreciate the offer and if I am way off with the gun cost could take you up on your offer :TU: Much of the Small Pipework you see in the photo will be removed before spraying as easy to do. Only other think will remove is the waste water container and that will reveal most of the underneath. Then covering brake discs, etc. should do the trick I would think? |
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Post by Hoovie on Aug 30, 2018 18:02:16 GMT
Gotta hurry Hoovie......not a job furra cauld day, as it will congeal in low temps as you know. Nick into a Dulux trade centre and ask him to shoogle yer cans on his paint mixing machine......lol. Underside looks in stonkful condition......why so clean.....? Power wash not enough.....get steamed as was done to yer wee Bustrucket green three door Rav. I think there is a steam clean place fairly close. good call :yes: Never had the Green RAV steamed - I think if I had done half the chassis would have disappeared! The difference between that car and this van in terms of underchassis condition is like Night and Day. The Van has got some thick underseal on which seems to have done a good job and Terosealing I am hoping will make sure it stays that way and outlives all the mechanicals  |
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Post by Hoovie on Oct 8, 2018 13:29:27 GMT
I actually went for power washing in the end, at least on the arches. 
Wheel Well Power Washed by David, on Flickr After a couple of hours it was totally dry, but wanted to leave for a couple more days to allow to fully dry. Started to apply the Shultz .... within 5 minutes disaster struck  The flex host on the nozzle end to the gun kinked; the pressure in the can built up and the shultz escaped through the tiny air hole in the gun screw cap, shot up and covered the side of the van in very thick and sticky underseal shot up with so much pressure that some even landed on the solar panels on the roof. so 5 minutes of Undersealing lead to around 2 hours of cleaning gunge off the side of my camper. Could have done without that happening Then switched to just the gun and no flexi-tube and finished off the first arch and did the rest. Actually found the spraying very precise, but the big cans made it a bit awkward with the wheels in place. 
Wheel Well 'Shultzed' by David, on Flickr will need to do a really good clean to check if any shultz splash remains on the side, but need to wait until it is fully dry before getting the snow foam applied, so a job for another day... |
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Post by unclebob on Oct 8, 2018 14:38:07 GMT
Looks much better but a messy job I feel 😳
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Adding whisky to underseal? 
The flex host on the nozzle end to the gun kinked; the pressure in the can built up and the shultz escaped through the tiny air hole in the gun screw cap, shot up and covered the side of the van in very thick and sticky underseal 