Rav4 2013 help needed

Anybody think I should go for this 🤔 willing to take a gamble for £100 , would it be plug and play or would it need registering to my vehicle in some way?? Thanks Stew


www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134309649020?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=841Iib0RQbO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

If your convinced its the instrument cluster fault try it... If it does need coding in and personally I dont think it will than you will just need to get it coded. Im not the one to ask when it comes to electronics but i cant see why the instrument cluster would need coding. There are companies that can correct the mileage on the odometer to match your old cluster if it turns out it is that that is faulty.  

Thanks to both for help Tbh I am not sure if it is cluster and neither are 3 cluster specialists I have contacted, the only person that thinks it is thats a toyota dealer who wants to fit anew cluster at an all in price of over £1500, so at least if I buy that one either way it should answer the question for roughly the cost of diagnostics at main dealer, thanks for help I will let you know how I get on

sounds like a cunning plan Badlrick 😉😉

Keep us posted ..always interested in a successful conclusion 👍🏻👍🏻

Left neg lead off fault was clear took it for a run stopped in lay-by switched engine off fault was back so not a cluster problem, but now I know its a wiring or speed sender switch or at very worst ecu problem all of which is something I cannot do so need to find a man or woman that can, bit disappointed but will carry on with my quest Stew

It really won't make any difference, assuming every cable has been removed from at least one of the battery terminals. Current flows in loops, there has to be a path back to the source of current, i.e. the source is the battery and the path has been broken.

You can have local charge stored in "bulk" capacitors on the power supply lines within ECUs. If the power (battery supply) is removed, in simple terms, current will flow from the positive "plate" of those capacitors, through whatever circuitry is in the ECU back to the negative "plate" of the capacitor. i.e. current is still flowing in a loop back to the source and the source is the bulk capacitance in the ECU in this case. This current generally won't flow anywhere else, i.e. out of the ECU, because 99% of the time there will some reverse battery protection (often a diode) in the ECU preventing that.

The bulk capacitance is there to do things like, for example, keep the ECU running should there be stuff like "micro-cuts" in the supply (milliseconds duration) or in the case of say airbags to still have sufficient local charge to fire the squibs if necessary.

The above is why there is often advice to wait a few minutes after disconnecting the battery, for things to "discharge", but to be frank, most ECUs only have enough capacitance on the supply input to keep the ECU functioning through whatever supply cut/dropout/transient it has been specified to meet and those are very often much much less than 1 second duration. Believe me, I've seen enough of those VM specs in my time to know.