|
Post by three5 on Feb 4, 2019 21:17:28 GMT
Annoyingly these were Duracells only put in 11 months ago, whereas the ones before we're in when we got the Rav over 3 years before. Hence why I didn't think it would be the cause, ours are 1632's though
I think that Bob's stock maybe for his Lexus. It never occured to me that a Petrol had a smaller battery in the key as well as for starting! Like yours, my XT5 runs on 1632's
|
|
|
Post by unclebob on Feb 4, 2019 21:53:06 GMT
That’s odd as they have the same looking key...3 button Lexus/Toyota 🤔🤔
|
|
|
Post by charliefarlie on Feb 4, 2019 22:24:00 GMT
Disconnecting the main vehicle battery can often help clear these faults. Leave disconnected for a good few minutes then connect up again. It’s like a computer restart.
Bit of a techno expert me 😜
|
|
|
Post by davrav on Feb 4, 2019 23:32:55 GMT
Disconnecting the main vehicle battery can often help clear these faults. Leave disconnected for a good few minutes then connect up again. It’s like a computer restart. Bit of a techno expert me 😜 OP has already tried that Charlie :TU:
|
|
|
Post by Ravasher on Feb 5, 2019 7:45:05 GMT
We had that same issue with the 4.3 and my heart dropped especially after the 2nd fob did the same. Started working fine filllowing day so still don’t know what caused it.
Dave who are DTi?
|
|
|
Post by shcm on Feb 5, 2019 7:45:53 GMT
If I remember correctly ( Help! SHCM ), you are not allowed to sell equipment that causes RF problems to other equipment AND niether are you allowed to sell equipment that can be interfered with by other equipment...... There are a few standards. In Europe it's the EMC directive (I think 2014/30/EU at the moment) that deals with emissions and susceptibility, although it only requires a manufacturer to prove due diligence with respect to EMC (Electro-magnetic compatibility). - it does not define test standards or levels. The accepted way of showing due diligence is to test to a standard from other organisations such as CISPR or ETSI or others. The testing is quite involved and the following is a vast over simplification but generally: Domestic stuff will be tested to around - 3 V/m (Volts per meter is an E-M field strength measurement, you might also see Amps/m). Industrial & maybe more critical medical - 10 V/m Vehicles (components) generally 200 V/m - Although this varies. I've seen 600 V/m asked for. Vehicle manufacturers tend to define extra requirements. For cars, usually each component (e.g. an ECU) will go through some sort of separate pre-compliance test (at the 200V/m level) before the manufacturer will accept it onto the vehicle for the final "Homologation" test. Trucks tend to be more "modular", i.e. no one truck is often build to the same spec as another, so each component usually goes through the approval separately, rather than a single "all components" homologation test, like cars. "Why do you ****ers charge so much for ECUs, when I can by other electronics so cheap?, whinge, whinge" - Yeah, right, see above for a start. Rail - Dunno. Probably similar or higher field strengths than vehicles. Aircraft - Higher still. Some of the issues with the fobs is that a large percentage operate in a band that: 1. It's also occupied by legitimate, licenced, much high power users that were there before key fobs. 2. The "licence free" part of the band is a free for all. e.g. continuous transmitting devices competing with very low "duty-cycle" devices like fobs. There are others. Why the fobs were put at those frequencies in the first is another story. I've wittered on too much already.
|
|
|
Post by phaeton on Feb 5, 2019 8:18:30 GMT
That’s odd as they have the same looking key...3 button Lexus/Toyota 🤔🤔 Ours don't have 3 buttons, they only have 2 in a silver casing
|
|
|
Post by davrav on Feb 5, 2019 10:18:56 GMT
We had that same issue with the 4.3 and my heart dropped especially after the 2nd fob did the same. Started working fine filllowing day so still don’t know what caused it. Dave who are DTi? Department of trade and industry Ash. OFCOM have responsibility for checking radio interference now.
|
|
|
Post by bigkev on Feb 5, 2019 14:44:08 GMT
Disconnecting the main vehicle battery can often help clear these faults. Leave disconnected for a good few minutes then connect up again. It’s like a computer restart. Bit of a techno expert me 😜 Ma Daddy........!
|
|
|
Post by phaeton on Feb 5, 2019 17:00:20 GMT
Now even more confused, bought new batteries, swapped out one of the old ones in a fob, stood inside house with Rav4 15-20ft away, pressed button, unlocked, locked, unlocked locked, happy bunny. Decided to try the other fob before I swapped the battery, you know what happened before I tell you, from the same position it unlocked, locked, unlocked, locked the doors. WTF!! Went outside & as I approached the Rav4 the interior light came on as it should, yesterday I had to press the exact same fob up against the glass & it would occasionally recognise it was there.
All I can put it down to is external influence but how I find that is beyond me.
|
|
|
Post by davrav on Feb 5, 2019 17:32:57 GMT
Now even more confused, bought new batteries, swapped out one of the old ones in a fob, stood inside house with Rav4 15-20ft away, pressed button, unlocked, locked, unlocked locked, happy bunny. Decided to try the other fob before I swapped the battery, you know what happened before I tell you, from the same position it unlocked, locked, unlocked, locked the doors. WTF!! Went outside & as I approached the Rav4 the interior light came on as it should, yesterday I had to press the exact same fob up against the glass & it would occasionally recognise it was there.
All I can put it down to is external influence but how I find that is beyond me.
Best call Mulder and Scully :yes:
|
|
|
Post by shcm on Feb 5, 2019 18:45:14 GMT
All I can put it down to is external influence but how I find that is beyond me.
With a directional antenna like a short-ish (for easy of handling) Uda-Yagi (possibly tuned to around 70cms) and a spectrum analyser. Or possibly a scanner if the "interference" is narrow-band (which it probably is). Sounds like a classic fob receiver blocking problem to me and I've investigated a few in the far dim & distant past. The source is probably long gone by now.
|
|
|
Post by phaeton on Feb 6, 2019 10:03:33 GMT
Best call Mulder and Scully :yes: You can keep Mulder, but you can send round Scully any day of the week although she looks like she's lost a bit too much weight in Sex Education
|
|
|
Post by phaeton on Feb 20, 2019 12:38:27 GMT
Happened again last night, wife went out to car, refused to open, multiple button presses finally got it open, then whenever start button pushed it announced no key present, putting key right up to button got it started. She went off to her friends, locked no problem, opened no problem, started no problem, drove home locked without issue. Again now standing in lounge, car will unlock/lock on the button on the fob. I'm out of suggestions, unless somebody is blocking the frequency
|
|