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Post by firemac on Sept 20, 2021 13:24:34 GMT
Our last 3-dr did exactly the same. New check strap is called for. Plentiful on e-Bay. Get the 4.3 version that allows the door to open a full 90 degrees then put some fluorescent red tape down the latch side of the door to keep you legal - the fully opening door obscures the rear side light. 👍
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Post by gilly on Sept 21, 2021 6:27:35 GMT
Thanks, Im in Newton Abbot, South Devon Unless you count our continental members, I reckon you are our most southerly member then. It's always useful to know who is reasonably local in an emergency. Ravasher and I only live about 4 miles apart and, when I can get hold of him, drink a lot of coffee together. ( We are also both Brummies originally! ) Your back door issue sound like a good excuse for a stripdown, cleanup and lubricate.
Is that in case you need a donor car if you get in a pickle on your holidays ?  |
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Post by three5 on Sept 21, 2021 6:31:41 GMT
Unless you count our continental members, I reckon you are our most southerly member then. It's always useful to know who is reasonably local in an emergency. Ravasher and I only live about 4 miles apart and, when I can get hold of him, drink a lot of coffee together. ( We are also both Brummies originally! ) Your back door issue sound like a good excuse for a stripdown, cleanup and lubricate.
Is that in case you need a donor car if you get in a pickle on your holidays ? Yeah - but he's not supposed to find out!  |
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Post by gilly on Sept 22, 2021 7:21:24 GMT
Ref. 'crack' sound on back door, check around the mounting bracket for any actual cracking of the metal around it. Does sometimes happen if the door has been whipped back or strained. Other than that, as Three5 and Unclebob have suggested, strip down and lubricate - or replace if obviously damaged. SO I checked the door straps. This happens 'crack noise' on passengers and rear doors. Bolts seem fine, issue seems at the other end where the drop pin is. The pin jumps as the noise occurs showing its coming from the hinge itself. Probably worn and slipping into place on each actuation. I will look up replacements. thanks all ![]() www.flickr.com/photos/188992551@N03/51503504880/in/album-72157714800635621/![]() |
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Post by unclebob on Sept 22, 2021 8:03:59 GMT
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Post by Paulus17 on Sept 22, 2021 8:39:16 GMT
Yes it is a good price you have paid compared to THIS one of similar spec been sold by our friends doon south who are still using the WCVC name as well as their new name? |
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Post by gilly on Sept 22, 2021 10:55:02 GMT
Yes it is a good price you have paid compared to THIS one of similar spec been sold by our friends doon south who are still using the WCVC name as well as their new name? Wow yes it was a bargain ... pretty much identical, I would say my external bodywork was just slightly tattier |
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Post by gilly on Sept 22, 2021 11:12:53 GMT
Our last 3-dr did exactly the same. New check strap is called for. Plentiful on e-Bay. Get the 4.3 version that allows the door to open a full 90 degrees then put some fluorescent red tape down the latch side of the door to keep you legal - the fully opening door obscures the rear side light. 👍 Thank you .... Found a few used. Looking at the part I assume i need to get 'inside' the rear door to change it? |
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Post by firemac on Sept 22, 2021 12:16:43 GMT
Our last 3-dr did exactly the same. New check strap is called for. Plentiful on e-Bay. Get the 4.3 version that allows the door to open a full 90 degrees then put some fluorescent red tape down the latch side of the door to keep you legal - the fully opening door obscures the rear side light. 👍 Thank you .... Found a few used. Looking at the part I assume i need to get 'inside' the rear door to change it? Yes. It’s pretty easy. Pop off the large grey door card on the tailgate and peel back the O/S plastic membrane. AFAIR there’s two securing bolts in the door and a knock-out pin on the frame. It’ll be self-evident once you start. Personally I wouldn’t buy second hand as they may go the same way as your current stay. |
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Post by clarki on Sept 22, 2021 17:16:52 GMT
:welcome:
Nice Rav :TU:
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Post by gilly on Sept 27, 2021 12:17:08 GMT
One final, but wide question, I did search the site but couldn't find it. Considering I now have the car, outlined in my sig, but I don't know when oils/lubes etc were changed etc what would be your minimum service you would do? I have the MOT in November so Planning some 'sort her out' work in line with that.
Brakes have been done recently when a line was replaced.
So Im thinking the following...
Obviously engine oil/filter
Obviously air filters - engine and cabin
But would you recommend ..
Gearbox oil change?
Any drive train oils?
Any suspension/running gear bushes? I note they look quite tired/perished but Im not getting any knocks/rolling that concern me
Anything else?
She's on 90,000 miles
Thanks
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Post by davrav on Sept 27, 2021 13:00:39 GMT
Quite right with the obvious stuff. Gearbox oil and diff oil if date of previous change unknown. If bushes not a concern at MOT I would leave them if you are happy with ride/steering etc. You could have a pre-MOT check done by a trusted garage though.
Uncle Bob and others will have a more expert view I am sure.
From your profile photo the headlights look a bit yellowed but that could just be the photo reproduction. If they are yellowed than there are various kits available to refresh them. That being said, my Son recently bought an old Previa and a quick buff up with Autoglym bodywork polish made a very noticeable difference for minimal effort until more time is available for a proper job.
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Post by firemac on Sept 27, 2021 14:01:27 GMT
As davrav says, gearbox and diff oils. I would also renew the serpentine belt that drives alternator, water pump, aircon compressor, etc. It’s supposed to be changed every 60k miles or 6 years IIRC. If it breaks it immobiles the car until Mr T can order a new one; with the current supply chain problems that could take a while.🙁
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Post by gilly on Sept 27, 2021 15:07:01 GMT
Quite right with the obvious stuff. Gearbox oil and diff oil if date of previous change unknown. If bushes not a concern at MOT I would leave them if you are happy with ride/steering etc. You could have a pre-MOT check done by a trusted garage though. Uncle Bob and others will have a more expert view I am sure. From your profile photo the headlights look a bit yellowed but that could just be the photo reproduction. If they are yellowed than there are various kits available to refresh them. That being said, my Son recently bought an old Previa and a quick buff up with Autoglym bodywork polish made a very noticeable difference for minimal effort until more time is available for a proper job. Thanks .. yes already restored the lights, what a difference it made too! |
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Post by three5 on Sept 27, 2021 16:09:01 GMT
Quite right with the obvious stuff. Gearbox oil and diff oil if date of previous change unknown. If bushes not a concern at MOT I would leave them if you are happy with ride/steering etc. You could have a pre-MOT check done by a trusted garage though. Uncle Bob and others will have a more expert view I am sure. From your profile photo the headlights look a bit yellowed but that could just be the photo reproduction. If they are yellowed than there are various kits available to refresh them. That being said, my Son recently bought an old Previa and a quick buff up with Autoglym bodywork polish made a very noticeable difference for minimal effort until more time is available for a proper job. Thanks .. yes already restored the lights, what a difference it made too! Out of interest, what bulbs have you got in the headlamps? I'm guessing that most of the guys on here have Osram Nightbreakers(?) or some other brand of higher output bulbs fitted. That makes quite a difference to night driving as well as refurbishing the lenses |
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